| Rather than providing information about
materials and techniques used with each item in the shop, I decided to put
everything here, in list form. If you have questions not answered here, please feel
free to e-mail me at sales@everclay.dk
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|
| MATERIALS: |
| Polymer Clay - a PVC
based modelling compound which is available in numerous colors that can be
mixed into every color there is. Until cured (hardened) it can be formed
or molded into just about any shape with minute detail, all kinds of
things can be mixed into it to change the look, texture or even smell of
the clay and after curing it can be carved, sawn, filed, sanded and
polished. Polymer clay is light weight, somewhat flexible and very durable after curing. |
| Metal leaf and foil -
metal leaf are ultra thin sheets of real metal and foil is metallic
looking
plastic sheets. |
| Powders - ultrafine metal or mineral mica
powders (gold, silver, copper and various colors) are used for
sparkling surface embellishments of the clay, to highlight certain
elements of a pattern or the piece itself. or as inclusions to
alter color and/or properties of the clay. |
| Jewelry findings - most findings are new gold or
silver plated base metal, copper or brass, but also parts from broken or discarded jewelry
can be used in a piece. Everything is carefully checked for flaws and is
in excellent condition. Hooks and studs for earrings are surgical steel or
sterling silver. |
| Beads and spacers - are made of all kinds of
material like glass, wood, bone, coral, metal, porcelain, earth clay, Bali
silver, plastic and also a wide variety of semi-precious stone beads and
chips. Mostly new, but as with the findings some are recycled from broken
or discarded jewelry. |
| Wire - copper, brass, gold or silver plated copper
and color laquered copper wire are used for wrapping beads and focals and
for making spacers and clasps. |
| Stringing - only high quality materials are used
for stinging necklaces or bracelets. Polyester coated stainless steel
wire, leather and buna cord (solid black rubber) and Soft Glass (hollow,
colored soft rubber cord). Fishing line or strong beading thread is used
for beading. Memory wire, handknitted cords and fine ribbons are widely
used in necklaces and bracelets. |
| Glossy finish - polymer clay cures to a
matte finish and can be sanded and polished to achieve a high shine
To protect metal leaf from tarnishing and powders to rub off over
time, several coats of Future Floor Polish or matte acrylic laquer
is applied and heat set for durability. |
|
| TECHNIQUES: |
| Mokume Gane - Japanese for Wood Grain - is an
ancient Japanese metal smith's technique, which has been adapted to
polymer clay with great success. Read about the "real" Mokume Gane
here. |
| Millefiori - Italian for Thousand Flowers - an
ancient glass maker's technique of making glass rods with a
(flower)pattern running all the way through the rod. The rod is then cut
into slices and used for decoration and jewelry, which is how the polymer
clay version of such rods (or canes) are used. Read about the ancient
technique and see some amazing paper weights right
here. |
Filigree - Yet another ancient metal smith's
technique adopted and modified
here.
Clay filigree is made by coiling and shaping extruded strands of
clay into a pleasing pattern either on it's own or onto a base layer
of clay. |
Mica Shift - Some Polymer Clays have microscopic,
flat mineral particles (mica) in them, which are shiny on top and bottom
and dull on the edges. By manipulating these particles so the shiny or
dull part is showing in a pattern or randomly, a light/shadow effect
appears and make the item look textured even though it's smooth.
Mica shift is also often referred to as "Ghost image" |
| Canes/canework: see Millefiori above. |
| Stamping/Texturing: Using massproduced
rubber stamps or texture plates, household items or natural
materials you can make impressions on the surface of the clay, To
further enhance these impressions, mica or metallic powders can be
added to highlight the raised areas. Rubber stamping with inks or
paints is also an option. |
| Dichroic glass: Another glass technique
adapted to polymer clay. By layering metal leaf, foil or other items
in liquid polymer clay an incredible likeness to *the real thing* is
acquired - but without the weight and fragility of glass. Read more
about dichroic glass
here. |
|
| MAINTENANCE: |
Polymer clay, properly handled and cared for, will
last a lifetime and beyond.
Harsh chemicals will harm the clay as can certain propellants in
aerosol canned products. If cleaning is necessary, use lukevarm
water with a drop of ordinary liquid dishwashing soap and a soft
brush. Or simply wipe down the item with a damp cloth.
Even if polymer clay can withstand prolonged contact with water,
other parts of an item might not, i.e.. jewelry findings and cords,
some of the used beads and lthe varnish used in some of my
creations.
Perfume, deodorant and hairspray should be applyed and allowed to
settle before polymer clay jewelry is worn.
Don't leave a piece permanently in direct sunlight as some colors
might fade over time (it is okay to wear your jewelry on a sunny
day, but don't leave a votive on the windowsill forever). Keep away
from heatsources and open fire. At 165F (75C) the clay will begin to
soften and will be prone to scratching, but it will not harm the
clay, which will return to normal after cooling. At 265F, however,
it may get discolored or even melt and thereby emit harmful gasses.
My polymer clay buttons can be machinewashed at 100F (40C) and even
tumble dried on low. Turn the garment inside out and allow to cool
after tumble drying before handling. Do NOT dry clean!If in
doubt, please don't hesitate to contact me. |
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